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04

Sep

The first question so many people have asked me about my 2 months in Paris since being back has not been about the internship, but about my love life. No romance in Paris? Why not?
 
I admit that I have a thing for men who speak French, and I appreciate a Parisian in a suit just as much as the next person, but there’s more to Paris than experiencing a French love affair. And I actually did have romance in Paris, a little less conventional and significantly more suited to my type: my Parisian partner in crime and soul mate, Kelly (http://mylifeaparis.tumblr.com).


 
Living right by the gay district in the Marais, people probably weren’t bothered by the fact that we looked like a couple. We would walk along the Seine at night, arm in arm, casually passing the numerous couples overstepping their PDA boundaries but simultaneously fitting in with them. Often sharing a fleur de sel crepe, often discussing how happy we were together. If that isn’t romance, I don’t know what is.
 


You can imagine our sadness when the time came to leave Paris for Italy (I should really not complain, but it’s what unemployment has done to me). But we made our mark on our last day, one of the most memorable moments of the summer. We had just filled our stomachs with L’As du Falafel on what was the most beautiful day in Paris that week. We walked to our most frequented bridge Pont Louis-Phillippe with a cold can of Leffe in hand, powering through the ignorant tourists who thought it was a good idea to come to Paris in August. Kelly attached a padlock to the bridge fence, a tradition for couples visiting Paris that symbolizes their “everlasting love” (thanks Wikipedia). Appropriately linked to it was a tab from the Leffe can. We aligned the lock with St. Genvieve, the patron saint of Paris, each kept one key for ourselves, and made a collaborative effort to toss the third key into the Seine. A peaceful and fitting end to our two-month adventure and something to come back to when we buy our property in the Marais. What’s the girl term for bromance? I think it’s just pure romance.

27

Aug

When living in Paris, you can’t help but dream about the celebrities of the past who lived in this delicious city. I say “delicious” because one celebrity in in particular took over our day-to-day fantasy as we walked by and sniffed the numerous out-of-our-price-range restaurants on every corner: the fabulous Julia Child. Both of us had just read her memoir My Life in France, a painful and indulgent read considering that she was living our exact dream: adventuring in Paris with the love of her life in the company of the cultural elite, dining at Michelin-starred restaurants every week if not every other day. Kelly and I decided to pay tribute to her foodie inspiration by visiting her Left Bank apartment on Rue de l’Universite. “81 Rue de Loo” she called it. Sadly to the French, she wasn’t much of a celebrity/food hero as she was to us Americans, and there was no sign, placard, or anything that took note of the fact that the Julia Child lived here. Of course it was a rented apartment and the French never needed someone to tell them how to master their own cuisine, but Kelly and I felt that something should be done in her honor. So Julia, this one’s for you.



29

Jul

Sangria in Spain

Well captured by Lisa Wang.

californieflanerie:

I’d already posted this amazing video of Pamplona. If a picture’s worth a thousand words, then that video’s worth a thousand pictures. I won’t try to compete, but here are two that I think make for a damn good summary of their own:

July 9, 10 PM:

July 10th, 9 AM

And, you know, to be fair, here’s me waiting for the toros:

And if it’s words you’re looking for, click here to read Kelly’s take on San Fermin.

28

Jul

Working at such a major museum like the Louvre has its benefits, but the bucket list grows quite long and stressful if you’re only there for two months. Today was my last day of work. I have decided not to dwell on the items I haven’t checked off and instead be grateful for what I have been able to get away with.

First off, I finally put the chocolate and cheese out of my head and went to the gym during my lunch break. The workout was only 20 minutes of ab crunching to Michael Jackson remixes and it didn’t quite work off the raspberry tart I had at lunch that day, but hey, I worked out in the Louvre!

The most unbelievable perk I’ve had at this internship is access to the Louvre’s collection of drawings, which accounts for more more than 150,000 pieces. Not only can I ask to see any artist I want, but I can physically put them in front of me on a table and look at it for however long I want.

It’s actually quite daunting…I couldn’t help but recall the time I almost ruined a $12,000 painting at the gallery I used to work at (to be honest, the painting should not have been valued that high but that is besides the point). Literally though, it’s the original sheet of paper, unframed, unprotected, for me to handle personally. Those skills were not on my CV! At one point I had to sneeze, so I pulled the most ungraceful, un-French stunt of bolting my face away from the table and sneezing into my arm. It was loud and unattractive,  but there was an unprotected Michelangelo siting in front of me.

The room is actually open to the public if you write the proper letter and get authorization to see the drawings of your choice. You are seated in a room commissioned by Napoleon III that is completely over the top as was much of the Second Empire. Insupportable et affreux as Monsieur Michel says, my dear conservateur en chef. He has now been at the Louvre for some 20 years or so and once saw Cartier-Bresson there. He would come every day to see one drawing, look at it for a couple hours and then leave, only to return the next day for another one.

In my time, I didn’t get through the 150,000+ drawings, but I did get through some significant pieces: Géricault, Degas, et bien sûr, Michel-Ange. I was feeling rebellious and touched the tip of my finger to the paper’s edge. Me and Michelangelo have officially been in contact. My heart literally melted at each of them, both for the opportunity of seeing them in person and also for the fact that I will probably never have such a chance again.

I need some time to dwell on this sudden absence from the Louvre, but otherwise, as will be evident in more stories to come, these have been the best two months of my life.

20

Jul

[Flash 10 is required to watch video]

Because it’s impossible to adequately summarize the night we spent in Pamplona, here is a short glimpse into how we started the night. Stay tuned until the last line for the ultimate summary of what the next ten hours were like.

04

Jul

The Vandermeersch Kouglof.

 
Thank you to David Leibowitz for sending us on this trip to butter/brioche heaven. Found at a bakery right next to Bois de Vincennes on the periphery of Paris, this is the best thing Kelly and I have eaten since being here.

The Vandermeersch Kouglof.


Thank you to David Leibowitz for sending us on this trip to butter/brioche heaven. Found at a bakery right next to Bois de Vincennes on the periphery of Paris, this is the best thing Kelly and I have eaten since being here.

Pont Louis-Phillipe

Pont Louis-Phillipe

The Office

I’ve been working at the Louvre for a month now, and though my heart still skips a beat when I get a straight shot of the Eiffel Tower upon entering the “office” at Porte des Lions, dare I say that the everyday is growing normal? Technically I was thrown straight into the “real world” experience that everyone fears after graduation, but my particular office just happens to be in a palace in Paris.

…I apologize for how obnoxious that just sounded.

The curator is preparing to close his office after 20 years and will be in Berlin next semester as a visiting professor. My main job besides occasional research and correspondence is to translate his lectures from French into English (he’s teaching a seminar on contemporary art, film and theater from principal cities across the globe). It sounds oh so simple, but every day is a new debate on how the English language butchers the French style of expression. I’ve gotten to the point of nodding my head in agreement whenever I hear “The poverty of this language, my God, it’s just unbearable!” Unfortunately, it’s proven to be quite true.

Almost more important than the actual work are the benefits. Not only do I get to feel cool walking with my badge past the hordes of tourists each day, but I get to eat at the cafeteria for museum personnel! Truth be told, it’s mediocre. But it’s subsidized by the museum so I pay next to nothing for a significant amount of food. If I gain weight on this trip, it’s because of this darn museum.

One benefit I have yet to try out: the gym. But where you ask? Little did you know that the last time you visited the Egyptian antiquities, just behind the ancient tombs was a power hour ab class in progress. And showers. And maybe treadmills? Will report back.

24

Jun

"Smarmy"

My Polish co-intern asked for the definition of “smarmy” and I couldn’t quite explain it so I turned to the internet.

Thank you urban dictionary for définition numéro 3: “the natural state of a frenchman”

Storm’s a brewin.

I could be referencing the weather or the start of the sales.